Welcome to my first-ever solo river cruise adventure! When Kim and I went on our first Viking River Cruise, the "Grand European" across Europe from Budapest to Amsterdam in the summer of 2015 we thought this would be a "once in a lifetime" trip. Well, it was the "trip of a lifetime" for sure, but it turned out to NOT be a "once" in a lifetime adventure. We'd been home about ten days when Viking reached out to us via email and offered to fly us to France for a river cruise and sweetened the offer with a $95 round-trip air fare. Who could say no! So we went to the French Riviera for a long weekend in Nice then sailed through the Provence region with Kim's identical twin sister Karrie and her husband Randy. While loving every moment of every day, and every excursion, Kim remarked that she'd enough castles and cathedrals for a while. As a former social studies teacher who had spent many years teaching World History I could not get enough. And so I found more than a dozen Viking trips I wanted to go on. The problem was that it is expensive to fly to Europe AND on Viking their standard booking policy is that the price you pay is per cabin......you are quoted a per person/double occupancy price. But if you alone want a cabin you pay for two passengers. But then over late spring, following our 2016 Spring Break trip to France I received a catalog from Viking that on a few trips there was a small notation, "Call us for special solo prices." So I contacted them via a chat online and found this trip, AND it came with a deal on airfare for only $400 round-trip as opposed to the typical $1500. So I'm off to explore western France on my own while Kim continues with that whole "work thing!" Two notes for those of you concerned for Kim....the funds for this trip will in no way impact ANY trips or limit OUR travel in the future and I have the full blessing of my so supportive wife who understands that we just have a different view of where we want to travel and what we want to see. Finally, as of this writing you will be happy to know that WE are already booked on a river cruise through the western US on the Columbia River out of Portland (June 2017), and a two week adventure in Southeast Asia (July 2017), and a Vikings Ocean cruise to Scotland, Norway, and Iceland (July 2018) with plans already in the works for a 2019 return to Alaska for two weeks on a small National Geographic-sponsored ship.
Below - as an introduction - I have posted the Viking Video Overview of this trip, and then below that I have outlined my day-to-day itinerary. Enjoy!
Viking River Cruises: Chateaux, Rivers & Wine
Day 1: Saturday October 15 - Bordeaux
Bordeaux Evening Walk (2 1/2 hours - Evening) - Today I fly out of Fort Lauderdale International to Bordeaux, France where I will be met by the Viking staff. Then I will be transported to the ship to settle into my stateroom. This evening we will view Bordeaux's stunning architecture, sprawling squares and sculpted fountains by night. The capital of the Aquitaine province is a major wine capital, the largest urban UNESCO World Heritage Site in the world and a dazzling vision at night. We will walk along the quayside, lined with elegant town houses from the city's prosperous mercantile days. Also, we'll enjoy a leisturely stroll past Place de la Bourse, where the world's largest reflecting pool glitters in the evening light, magically mirroring stately buildings. The city's lights cast a glow on the Three Graces Fountain and the Monument des Girondins. In the Place des Chartrons, a charming square with a small village feel, we'll admire the old homes of wine merchants. Later we will board a streetcar for a ride past Fenwick House, home of the first American ambassador to France, and the 1680 Flemish House. After we alight from our tram, the ship is but a short walk away!
Day 2: Sunday October 16 - Bordeaux Bordeaux City Tour (4 hours - Morning) - Today we tour the capital of the namesake wine growing region that,save Paris boasts more protected buildings than any other French city. We will meet our guide for a short transfer to the city center. Here, we'll marvel at the expanse of the Place des QUinoconces, one of the largest squares in Europe, withits array of majestic sculptures and fountains. Then, we will view the neoclassical Grand Theatre de Bordeaux: the 18th century masterwork is distinguished by its 12 Corinthian columns and is home to the national opera. We will also admire the beautiful Place de la Bourse, where the world's largest reflecting pool, the Miroir d'Eau or Water Mirror, spreads out like glass and stately buildings. We will also see several spectacular churches along the way and visit the Musee d'Aquitaine. Here we will enjoy a guided tour of the collections highlighting the region's triangular trade route and Bordeaux's position in it.
Day 3: Monday October 17 - Cadillac
Cadillac City Walk (1 1/2 hours - Morning) - We will get acquainted with the charming port town of Cadillac during this leisurely stroll through one of France's most charming towns. Originally Cadillac was built as a fortified village, this riverside gem's sole purpose was to protect Bordeaux from vessels coming downriver. Eventually, it tapped into the lively trade being shipped on the Garonne and grew into a successful merchant town. Today, it is known for it's sweet wines and inviting character. We will join a local guide for a walking tour into its heart, passing through the Sea Gate, with its crenellated crown, and the Clock Gate, named for the colorful timekeeper near its top. We'll continue past the soaring Saint Blaise collegiate church and conclude our walk at the castle, one of the first examples of French-style architecture. It's austere exterior belies the sumptuous life of luxury that was lived within. After, we will have time to explore on our own.
Sauternes Wine Tasting (3 hours - Afternoon) - Here we will sample some of France's sweetest winesin the town that produces them. We will join our guide and drive across the Garonne River into the prestigious Sauternes appellation, where lush vineyards blanket the countryside, fed by the river's waters, rich soil and Atlantic breezes. Thomas Jefferson himself, America's third president, counted Sauternes among his favorite wines during his visits. We will enjoy a short scenic drive to one of it's chateaux to learn how these prized wines are made. We might be surprised to learn that a fungus is central to cultivating a successful crop of Semillon, Sauvignon blac and Muscadelle grapes. We will be invited to work in the vineyard if we'd like to, a unique chance to connect with the land that produces this tasty fruit. Then we will have a chance to taste a few of the wines and see if we agree with Jefferson!
Day 4: Tuesday October 18 - Liborne
Home-Hosted Visit: Chateaux Siaurac (4 Hours - Morning) - Today we'll join a Viking-only excursion as we are invited into a grand chateau for an exclusive insider's tour and a delicious lunch. The Chateau Siaurac, which has been in the Guichard family for generations, since 1832, stands at the border between the Pomerol and Saing-Emilion, the chateau plays a central role in the area's wine business. We will likely be greeted by the owner of Siaurac, Paul GOldschmidt, and enjoy a tour of the main house and park. During a walk among the vines, we will see the grape varieties grown here and learn how to tell them apart. Then we'll join our hosts for a private tasting in the cellars to see where the wine is aged. Aftwerward, we will enjoy a casual lunch of local delicacies, a carefully prepared meal accompanied by a glass of wine from the chateau's cellars.
Saint-Emilion Walking Tour (4 Hours - Afternoon) - Saint Emilion is one of Aquitaine's must-see winegrowing towns, an open air museum where it's easy to feel as if you've stepped back in time. We will join our guide for a short drive to the hillside medieval village, perched on a limestone plateau overlooking vast parcels of vineyards. The town was founded by a modest Breton hermit in the 8th century and grew into a monastic center for many who followed. For centuries, life here has evolved around harvesting grapes and wine-making and Saint-Emilion has the honor of being the first vineyard region declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. During our tour we will savor the old-world atmosphere, learn about the underground monuments that grew up around the hermitage and enjoy free time to stroll the narrow cobblestone streets and linger in some of the many shops and cafes before returning to the ship.
Day 5: Wednesday October 19 - Blaye
A Taste of Cognac: Camus (7 Hours - Morning/Afternoon) - Today we learn the history of Cognac and sample the cherished brandy during a Privileged Access visit to a distillery in its namesake town. We'll drive with our guide through the scenic Bordeaux countryside to the town of Cognac. Upon arrival, we will stop to visit Camus, a historic distillery, to see how the legendary beverage is produced. During our private tour we will learn about the wine-growing family that has owned the business for five generations, hear about the evolution of this respected brand and see the great oaken barrels where different Cognacs are aged to perfection. We'll join a master blender in a workshop where we can learn the secrets of Cognac blending under his watchful eye. Then we can try to create our own personal blend and have our own "brand" inscribed in Camus's record books! We'll be able to take home a bottle of our own blend as a souvenir of our memorable visit!
Day 6: Thursday October 20 - Blaye
Blaye Walking Tour & Citadel Visit (3 1/2 Hours - Morning) - Today we explore the scenic citadel complex along the bans of the Gironde estuary, a grand fortress built on the orders of Louis XIV. We'll meet our guide and take a short drive from Bourg to Blaye where we will then head to the extraordinary 17th-century citadel, dramatically set on a rock beside the river. Within its walls we can admire the ruins of an ancient Gothic chateau. Still today, the chateau contains the tomb of Charibert II, King of Aqutaine and the legend has it that the Frankish hero Roland, who served Charlemagne, is also buried there. During our tour we will have time to take in the beautiful setting on the estuary. The citadel of Blaye and the nearby forts of Pate and Medoc are collectively listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There will be free time in BLaye before we return to our ship.
Medoc & Margaux Wine Country Visit (3 1/2 hours - Afternoon) - We'll sample some of France's best wines in the Margaux appellation, starting at a stately chateau and continuing with a special dinner at the elegant Chateau Kirwan, whose wine was classified as a prestigious Third Growth in the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855. We will join our guide for a scenic drive through the Medoc region through gently rolling hills. Many thousands of acres of vineyards blanket the sea-kissed landscape. On this Gironde estuary peninsula the sandy and gravelly terroir is supremely suited to viticulture. We will stop at one of the region's most respected chateaux to tour the cellars and enjoy a wine tasting learning about the distinct qualities of Margaux's Merlots and cabernet francs. Then we'll continue to the Chateaux Kirwan resting on 99 acres of vineyards that produce stellar red wines. Here we will savor a carefully prepared meal, accompanied by the chateau's own wines of course.
Day 7: Friday October 21 - Bordeaux
My original plan had been to take a four-hour excursion to take up the morning, but just a couple of weeks out from the trip I was reading through my trip and excursions and I saw where if I went on this morning's outing we would be leaving out of Pauillac, where we begin the day, by bus and at the end of the tour the bus would "return you to your ship in Bordeaux." Hang on a tic I thought - if I do NOT go on the trip will the ship be sailing along lazily down the Gironde River? Checked it out and YES that is exactly what would be happening. I considered it overnight and decided, especially since I'd have been on the go for six days already, that I would enjoy a lazy morning of river cruising - after all, that's the kind of trip I'm on! And if I had to complain about anything from our week-long French River Cruise last March it was that we didn't get to enjoy the "cruise" part of the vacation. So I cancelled the trip this morning I'll be sitting atop the Longship Forsetti and taking in the scenic French countryside!
Bordeaux for Connoisseurs (4 Hours - Afternoon) - Our final excursion this afternoon is to visit two vineyards and enjoy two wine tastings in a one-of-a-kind region. Bordeaux is the wine-making capital of the world - and a wine-connoisseur's nirvana. We'll take a one-hour ride by coach from the ship to Chateau Leoville Poyferre in the Saint-Julien appellation of the Bordeaux region. here we will taste three wines - a Chateau Leoville Poyferre one barrel sample, Chateau Leoville Poyferre vintagee 20016 and Chateau Leoville Poyferre vintage 2005 - paired with one cheese. Then we will take a fifteen minute ride to Chateau La Tour Carnet where we will tour the winery's medieval castle and visit the wine cellar. Following our tour we'll have a tasting of three wines: Chateau La Tour Carnet Grand Cru Classe 1855 Haut-Medoc Rouge, Chateau La Tour Carnet Blanc applellation BOrdeaux and Grand Chenes-Cru Bourgeois de Monsieur Magrez. At the conclusion of the tasting a coach will return us to the ship in Bordeaux.
Day 8: Saturday October 22 - Bordeaux
Depart for Fort Lauderdale - after a final breakfast on board I'll be transported to the airport for my flight home.
Sauternes Wine Tasting (3 hours - Afternoon) - Here we will sample some of France's sweetest winesin the town that produces them. We will join our guide and drive across the Garonne River into the prestigious Sauternes appellation, where lush vineyards blanket the countryside, fed by the river's waters, rich soil and Atlantic breezes. Thomas Jefferson himself, America's third president, counted Sauternes among his favorite wines during his visits. We will enjoy a short scenic drive to one of it's chateaux to learn how these prized wines are made. We might be surprised to learn that a fungus is central to cultivating a successful crop of Semillon, Sauvignon blac and Muscadelle grapes. We will be invited to work in the vineyard if we'd like to, a unique chance to connect with the land that produces this tasty fruit. Then we will have a chance to taste a few of the wines and see if we agree with Jefferson!
Saint-Emilion Walking Tour (4 Hours - Afternoon) - Saint Emilion is one of Aquitaine's must-see winegrowing towns, an open air museum where it's easy to feel as if you've stepped back in time. We will join our guide for a short drive to the hillside medieval village, perched on a limestone plateau overlooking vast parcels of vineyards. The town was founded by a modest Breton hermit in the 8th century and grew into a monastic center for many who followed. For centuries, life here has evolved around harvesting grapes and wine-making and Saint-Emilion has the honor of being the first vineyard region declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. During our tour we will savor the old-world atmosphere, learn about the underground monuments that grew up around the hermitage and enjoy free time to stroll the narrow cobblestone streets and linger in some of the many shops and cafes before returning to the ship.
